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The wait is over!
Today we cast on the Torc Cardigan knit-along and there is a lot to cover, from the provisional cast on at the center of the saddle to modifications and tips for clue one, so let's dive right in.
This cardigan begins at the centre of the back of the neck with a provisional cast-on for half of the right saddle stitches. These are worked to the edge of the neck, then stitches are cast on for the second half of the saddle and the rest of the right shoulder is finished. You are working decreases at each side to slope the shoulder as well.
The left shoulder is then worked in the same way. When the saddle is complete, stitches are picked up from the bottom edge, first for the back and then for each side of the front. You will work in pattern down to the armhole, working armhole shaping and also neck shaping at the front.
I’ve called out the Invisible provisional cast-on for the centre of the saddle. This has the advantage of being worked directly onto waste yarn (or a barber cord!) so it’s very fast to work the second side when you come back to it. However, if you prefer another provisional cast-on, feel free to substitute.
The Neckline has v-neck shaping, which means we are increasing at the neck edge every RS row. It will be a little confusing at the start because there is a Gansey pattern worked at the neck edge before the increase. This gives us a lovely wide Gansey pattern edging along the side of the neck, but it means that at the very start, the neck increases are starting almost where you would expect the armhole increases to be!
If you are getting a different gauge and you like the fabric that it is knitting up as you may decide to adjust the size you are knitting based on your gauge. I've done a tutorial on how to do this here. Remember if you adjust the size you knit for your gauge you will still need to work the 'lengths' for the size you want rather than the larger size!
If you have wider (or narrower) shoulders, you can adjust the width of your shoulder saddle to match your body shape. Just remember to adjust equally on each side so that the reverse stockinette stitch ‘welt’ remains at the centre of the back of the neck.
If you are making it wider, you can either space the decreases out further or just work extra rows with no decreases at the end.
If you are making the shoulders narrower, you can remove some rows between decreases to ensure you can fit the decreases in.
If you want to return to a larger bust size after working a narrower shoulder, you will need to work more armhole increases on both the back and front to ensure you get back to the same number of bust stitches. This will mean that you start them sooner so that you don’t change the depth of your armhole.
It would be the opposite if you have made the shoulders wider. You will need to do less bust increases. This will mean that you start those increases further down so that you still have the same armhole depth.
Yoke Depth Adjustments
If you want to increase or decrease the depth of your yoke, this will work best before you work your armhole increases.
If you want to make your yoke depth shorter, you may find that you need to work your neck and armhole increases at the same time, so make sure you keep track if this.
If you want to increase your yoke depth, you can keep working your Gansey pattern for longer without causing any problems.
Be very careful to make the same adjustment on both the back and on each side of the front.
If you have any questions or you'd like to join us for a Torc clue 1 chat, pop over to YouTube May 8th at 3.30pm (GMT) or tap the link to catch the replay too!
Wishing you all the best for clue 1 of the KAL.
Don't forget to drop into Knithub to join the chat!
And if you'd like to join us for the 2024 Torc Knit-along just click here.
Can you believe we are on the final clue of our mystery knit-along?
Clue 3 is all about finishing.
Most of this clue will use the contrast colour(s), with the main colour only coming into the last few rows and bind off.
This final section of the shawl works the Butterfly Stitch in only the contrast colours. If you have two contrast colours, you will change the colour every 6 rows (as shown in the chart).
If you have a single contrast colour, all rows will be worked in the single colour.
When you finish with your Butterfly stitch pattern, you will return to the main colour to work the edging and Picot Bind-Off. This combination of large yarn overs followed by the Picot Bind-off creates a nice dramatic edging for your shawl.
The Butterfly Stitch is delicate and beautiful. It uses slipped stitches over a few rows that are gathered together to create a butterfly effect.
You need to be careful with the Butterfly stitch as the first row begins on the wrong side, which can trip people up!
In addition to this, all the slipped stitches happen on the wrong side of the work. When you are slipping wyib (with yarn in back), it is the back relative to how you are holding your work. So the 'back' when you are working the WS is on the RS!
If you've got a lot of extra contrast colour left, you can just keep going with this section! Keep working the Butterfly Stitch as long as you'd like.
If you want to incorporate more of the Wave Stitch pattern into this section, remember the Wave stitch pattern is in multiples of 10 stitches. So you just need to move 10 more stitches inside your pattern marker.
I can't wait to see how you all finish your shawls and don't forget if you have any questions we are live on YouTube this Thursday and you'll find us in Teachable and Knithub!
With shawls, blocking is very important! You will want to block your shawl aggressively, stretching out the fabric so that it becomes open and drapey.
I like to use a combination of blocking wires and pins or knit blockers to pin it out when it is wet. You can find more on this with your accompanying MKAL workshops.
Don't forget we will be live over on YouTube at 3.30pm Irish Time/10.30am EST to chat through this clue and share some tips. You can subscribe here and receive a notification when we are live.
Don't forget to pop all your finished clue 3 photos into this thread for our community prize raffle!
If you're reading this, it's not too late to join us!
You can pop over here and you'll get complimentary access to all our step-by-step workshops for the MKAL as well as our exclusive community threads over on Knithub.
You can catch up with clue 1 right here and clue 2 here.
We can't wait to see all the shawls popping up online!
I hope you've enjoyed taking part in this mystery knit-along.
See you over in Knithub.
Carol
I hope you’ve all enjoyed the first clue, now it’s time to move on from the short rows into the next stage of our shawl.
In this clue, we will continue to work the biased stitch pattern, with increases on one end and a decrease at the other end. We will continue to work with the main colour in garter stitch, but now, instead of short row wedges, we will be incorporating a Wave pattern in between the garter stitch sections.
This Wave pattern is one of my favourite stitch patterns. It uses elongated stitches of different lengths to create a ‘wave’ effect. When you create these elongated stitches in a lighter-weight yarn, they become almost translucent, allowing the heavier garter stripes between the waves to dominate. This stitch pattern relies on very open stitches as well as the variation between the two weights of yarn. Because of this, the wave pattern will require blocking to open up fully!
This stitch pattern is in multiples of 10 stitches, and we will block that off with stitch markers at the start and end. The stitches at the start will continue to increase due to the yarn overs and the stitches at the end will continue to decrease. However, our pattern stitches in the middle will remain the same!
The blocks of Wave Pattern will be worked 4 times in total. If you have two contrasting colours, you will be changing between them, but if you are using a single contrast, all wave patterns will be in your chosen colour.
Note: If you’ve made your shawl wider in the first clue, you will need to adjust the number of repeats you work for the Wave Pattern.
As there are edge stitches on each end, this should be easy to do.
Don't forget if you have any questions you can join us over on YouTube Live or pop your questions into our community Knithub.
Don't forget we will be live over on YouTube at 3.30pm Irish Time/10.30am EST to chat through this clue and share some tips. You can subscribe here and receive a notification when we are live.
Don't forget to pop all your finished clue 2 photos into this thread for our community prize raffle!
If you're reading this and would like to join us for our knit-along, you can pop over here.
During the knit-along, you'll get complimentary access to all our step-by-step workshops for the MKAL as well as our exclusive community threads over on Knithub.
You can catch up on clue 1 right here.
I hope you enjoy working the Wave Pattern in clue 2 as much as I do!
Don't you just love jumping into a new project?
It's even more exciting when it's a mystery. You don't yet know what fun adventure is ahead of you!
We're starting small with clue 1 of the Grianchloch shawl, with just a few stitches. I opted to start with the Twisted German Cast-On (also known as the Old Norwegian Cast-On) as it gives a nice, attractive but stretchy edge. If you have knit a shawl before, then you know that lots of stretch is what it's all about!
This shawl is worked on the bias. This means that you have increases on one end and decreases on the other end of rows. For the shawl to grow in size, you will need more increases than decreases.
Typically, this shawl style tends to be long and skinny as you will be working a lot of rows while it increases slowly. I've tweaked this basic shape in the design just a little to allow for a little more width.
This is done by using short rows.
The short rows are worked on the end that has the increases. This means that in the short row 'section' there are only increases and no decreases. This allows the shawl to grow a little wider than would normally happen with the biased shape.
I've used German Short Rows in this shawl as it's the neatest way of working short rows in garter stitch. These will look the same on both the right and wrong side of the work, which is ideal for a shawl!
I'm never fond of changing yarns and joining in new yarn on shawls. So I will usually do my best to minimise the number of times I have to join in yarn.
When designing this shawl, I change my colour for the short row sections on the wrong side. This means that the main colour only has to travel a couple of rows up (as there are no short rows on that end) which will allow you to avoid breaking the yarn.
However, my colours do not have a big variation.
This means that the colour difference is very subtle on the right side. This will be more dramatic if you have a big difference in colour. I like how this works, but if you don't, you can work your colour change on a right side row and adjust the short rows by a row to compensate.
The main yarn used in this shawl is a fingering weight yarn with a contrasting lace weight yarn. My lace weight was a brushed mohair blend, which is very forgiving of knitting loosely as the mohair 'fills in the gaps'.
The stitches in the lace weight are going to be much more open than the fingering weight yarn.
This will help to create two different textures for each section. Aggressive blocking will help to even out any uneven stitches you may have from knitting the contrast yarn loosely.
In my sample, I used 2 skeins of Cabrito, which have 25g in each. However, the way the shawl is written, if you have a single 50g skein of contrast colour, you can work that for all contrast yarn sections. This should work well in the pattern, especially if it has some colour variations.
If you want to make the shawl wider, you can work more short row sections, or perhaps make the short row sections that are there wider.
If you do this, however, you will need more than a single skein of the main colour. The shawl, as written, uses that yarn almost completely. There is a little extra of the contrast yarn to play with.
Wishing you all the best for clue 1 of the KAL.
Don't forget to drop into Knithub to join the chat!
And if you'd like to join us for the 2024 Mystery Knit-along, just click here.
Can you believe we are releasing the final clue of the Galanta knit-along?
If you are working on the vest, this clue is really fast. You will just be working your armhole and neck edgings.
If you are doing the full sweater, then you will also work your sleeves.
Don't worry, we won't leave anyone on sleeve island!
In the Galanta Sweater, the sleeves are worked from the top down, with short row sleeve cap shaping.
You begin by picking up the stitches around the armhole, working short rows back and forth to shape the sleeve cap, and then joining in the round to work the sleeve.
Did you know that even at this late stage, there are lots of ways to tweak your final knit?
In fact, sleeve modifications are probably the number one change that most knitters make to their garments!
Adjusting the length to suit your body, even if it's as little as an inch, can make or break how comfortable a sweater is to wear.
It's the same with the sleeve size.
Do you have a bigger upper arm?
Pick up more stitches!
Small wrist?
Add a few more decreases just before the cuff.
The rate of stitch pick up around the armhole will vary depending on whether you are working the set-in sleeve or the vest.
For both, you will begin at the centre of the underarm and you will pick up one stitch for each of the bound-off underarm stitches.
For the set-in sleeve, as you work along the rows along the side of the armhole you will be picking up close to one stitch for every two rows. This is a wide spacing but it works because you are working short rows back and forth to shape the sleeve cap this gives you plenty of room.
When you have finished, you’ll be at your upper arm and that will mean you have the right number of upper arm stitches.
If you are working the vest, you will want to pick up more stitches.
You will be picking up around two stitches for every three rows.
This is because you are just working an edging, so you need enough stitches for that edging to lie nice and smooth.
If you are worried about your vest armhole getting too tight (most at risk with the I-cord version) then you can pick up extra stitches or alternatively, even use a larger needle size.
If you want a larger upper arm, you will need to pick up more stitches around the armhole opening and add extra short rows to match the extra stitches picked up.
Make sure you add the same amount of extra stitches on each side so that your sleeve is symmetrical!
For a stitch gauge of 18 sts = 4" / 10 cm in St St an addition of 4 extra stitches adds 1” / 2.5 cm approximately to the sleeve circumference.
Be careful to make changes in multiples of 4 so that you can still easily work the faux cable cuff which has a 4 stitch pattern repeat.
If you want to change the size of your sleeve at the cuff, you can adjust the number of decreases, giving you either a smaller cuff with more decreases or a larger cuff if you reduce the number of decreases.
If you want to change your sleeve length, just adjust the length as you work. If you want to shorten the sleeve, you may need to move your sleeve decreases closer together to fit them all in.
If you want a shorter sleeve but the same number of total decreases, then you will take out some rounds between each decrease. The total number taken out will depend on how much length you want to reduce the length.
If you wanted to make it 2” / 5 cm shorter, you want 13 rounds less. You would remove those 13 rounds from between the decreases.
The v-neck is designed to be fairly deep, with two edging options. The I-cord edging will create a firm, but open neckline, but the ribbed edging will close the neckline, giving you a less open neck.
If you want to close your neckline in even more, you can use the ribbed neck edge to do that.
You would:
Wow, clue 3 of the Galanta KAL has a lot of modification options!
Don't forget to pop into our Knithub to chat about any modifications you're knitting or if you have any questions. And don't forget to share your wips and post your FO in the final prize thread!
Are you ready for clue 2 of the Galanta knit-along?
Don't worry if you aren't there yet. We want you to enjoy your knitting at your own pace, but for those of you who are ready, let's dive straight in:
For this part of the knit-along, we are moving on to the upper body of our sweater.
I'm often unsure how to name this section.
If it was circular, you'd call it a 'yoke' but for set-in sleeves, that doesn't sound exactly right. So I've settled on 'upper body'!
You start by dividing the front and the back of the sweater.
As always, I opt to join a new skein of yarn, so the yarn is there waiting for you when you are ready to move onto the second side.
However, if it annoys you to have extra yarn just hanging there, you can skip that step and just join the yarn when you come back to work the front! (You won't forget to start on the wrong side of the sweater, right?)
We will now work just on the back of the sweater.
First, we shape the armholes and then, when that is complete, we will add a small section of the faux cable pattern to the right shoulder.
Finally, we finish with short rows to shape the shoulder slope.
When the back is finished, we will return to the front stitches.
We immediately divide them in two and begin working on the v-neck shaping at the same time as the armhole shaping. Then we finish off with a little faux cable on each shoulder.
When the Front is also complete, we'll turn inside out and use our three-needle bind off to create the perfect shoulder join.
If you don’t like have extra skeins of yarn attached, you can omit the addition of the second skein of yarn when you divide at the underarm. Just make sure you begin on a wrong side when you return to work on the front!
The faux cable positioning on the back of the sweater can very easily be modified.
I liked how it looked as just a small detail on one shoulder but you could add it to both shoulders, or even all the way across. Just remember to add extra stitches for the pattern and decrease them when you are done.
If you do not want your v-neck to be as deep as written in the pattern, you can move the start of the v-neck further up the front. Alternatively, you can work a wider neck ribbing in your finishing.
This is easier to do on larger sizes as you will have more rows to still work the correct number of neck decreases. For the smaller sizes, you can only move it by a couple of rows.
If you want to change the depth of your armhole, you can just work your upper body for a little longer or shorter. Again, be careful shortening it as you may have a shortage of rows on smaller sizes for working the neck decreases.
If you add length and you are working the full sleeve sweater version, you may need to follow the sleeve directions for a larger size as you will have a larger armhole.
Are you planning any mods in clue 2 of the Galanta sweater or vest?
Don't forget to pop into Knithub to chat about this clue and any modifications you're undertaking.
Just finding out about our Galanta KAL now?
There's plenty of time to join in the fun, just click here:
I hope you're all ready to go with the first clue?
The part I love about bottom up knits is that it feels like a gentle start. Once you've checked your gauge and learned the pattern stitch, you are just working back and forth in rows to begin.
The Galanta sweater begins with each side of the back and front worked flat in Faux Cable stitch. I loved this as I started the project while I was travelling. This allowed for nice, mindful knitting while flying and driving.
Once you've finished the flap, it's time to join in the round. This continues the Faux Cable all around initially, but then starts a stepped decrease on both the front and back.
I love the end effect this creates!
Once the Faux Cable is complete, you're just working in stockinette stitch in the round to the underarm. In the samples there is no waist shaping and I've kept the length slightly (but not too) cropped.
This sweater will comfortably work with a variety of ease options, depending on your personal preference. In fact, I'm modelling two different sample sizes; the sweater is modelled in the third size and the vest is the second size. You can easily see how the fit varies depending on how much ease you opt for.
There are a few different modifications you may opt for in the body.
To do this, you will just cast on all the stitches, join immediately in the round and then work the Faux Cable pattern in the round for three repeats instead of one
I've opted for a more cropped style in the sweater, but if you have extra yarn, you can work the body for a longer length to suit your personal style and body shape.
Every extra 1”/ 2.5 cm will require approximately 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) yds / 20 (22, 24, 25.5, 27.5, 29, 31, 33, 34.5, 36.5) m of yarn.
I've knit the body straight which suits the cropped style of the sweater. If however, you'd like a bit of waist shaping, I think you would also need to add length to the body.
To shape, you can decrease at the top of the waist and then increase to the bust. Basic details of how to work those decreases and increases are given in the pattern tips, but the spacing will depend on your body.
Remember to move the shaping in from the edge of your work so it won't conflict with the Faux Cable pattern!
So now that you've an overview of this clue, are you looking forward to jumping in?
Hop on over to our Galanta Knithub KAL forum to share your progress with other knitters!
It's one of our favourite times of the year around here...
It's Autumn KAL time!
We get to dream about our first sweater for the cooler weather and this year we went for options.
Why?
Because everyone's dream sweater is a little different.
So join us this autumn as we choose from various scrumptious yarns, different edges and modifications, as well as choosing between a full sweater or a vest pattern.
A knit-along may be just what you're looking for.
You'll find lots of help along the way when you run into problems and tons of support to cheer you on to the finish line.
Our knit-alongs are always released as 'clues' with each part of the pattern released on the schedule. For the Galanta KAL, the release schedule will be as follows:
To begin with, grab the Galanta pattern here. It comes with a full complimentary workshop series for the KAL ahead.
Then you will decide if you want to knit the sweater or the vest.
Now it's time to grab the yarn kit for the vest or the sweater. All kits come with both Nua Worsted and Blasta yarn options. You can see Nua Worsted kit knit up above in the vest and Blasta for the sweater.
Yes, you can also stash dive if you have some prized yarn at home you can't wait to cast on with.
Once you have your yarn and pattern, you can join the KnitHub chat forum here to chat with fellow knitters about which option you picked and get started with your swatching and sizing!
Finally, you need to log into Teachable to access your video workshops. These will be added as each new clue is released. You will also find pattern updates in here too as well as a dedicated comment section.
Now all that's left is to start swatching!
Have any questions?
Post them in our dedicated KnitHub KAL channel here.
Can you believe it? The final clue is here!
You can now find Clue 3 of the Holly Blue cardigan knit-along in your inboxes and in our pattern workshop. It's time to grab your needles and take on those sleeves.
There will be no knitter left behind as we zoom past sleeve island and on to the finishing bands and blocking. We are very excited to see you all with your finished cardigans very soon!
Don't worry if you haven't finished Clue 2 yet. It's more important that you enjoy the knit-along at your own pace and you have a garment that you are thrilled with!
In this clue, we will be finishing our sleeves as well as our neck and button bands.
In this clue, pay close attention to your sleeve size and where your Bumblebee lace sleeve motif will be positioned. This will also be the first motif that you work in the round!
Your pattern workshop has step-by-step tutorials on:
You can find all of your KAL step-by-step videos right here and if you're just finding out about our spring 2023 knit-along you can join us here.
Don't forget you still have time to post your knit-along wip in Knithub or on social with the tag #HOLLYBLUEKAL before we choose our clue 2 winner! Carol will choose and announce a clue 2 winner on June 14th 2023.
Our final prize will be announced on June 22nd 2023. As with our other clues, the winner will be chosen from finished photos of the Holly Blue Cardigan in our Knithub or on social tagged with #HOLLYBLUEKAL.
When you are working sleeves from the top down, you will have a lot of scope to change the size to suit your body shape. Check your body measurements against the schematic and decide if you need more or less room on the sleeve. Then you can calculate the number of stitches you will need and adjust the increase frequency.
This is one of the biggest advantages of knitting seamlessly from the top down, you can adjust the sleeve length to suit your body and your preference. Like 3/4 length sleeves? No problem! When you are knitting your sleeve from the top down you can knit to the length that suits you. You may need to make adjustments to the number and placement of your sleeve decreases if you're making a big adjustment in length. Guidance will be given in the tips for this club.
The buttonholes are worked after your body is complete by picking up stitches for the band and working it from the side. If you have adjusted the length of your garment you may also want to adjust the number of buttons and the spacing of them. Carol will give you some tips on how to visually change the spacing of those buttonholes using moveable markers to see where they will and on your cardigan.
Are we excited?
We can't quite believe it but Clue 2 of the Holly Blue cardigan knit-along is live! It's time to grab your wip's and prepare for some knitting fun.
Don't worry if you haven't finished Clue 1 yet. It's more important that you enjoy the knit-along at your own pace and have a garment that you are thrilled with!
It's time to move on to the body of the Holly Blue cardigan.
In this clue we will be:
In your pattern workshop, you will also find video tutorials on bust modifications and checking your bust size.
You can find all of your KAL step-by-step videos right here and if you're just finding out about our spring 2023 knit-along you can join us here.
Don't forget you still have time to post your knit-along wip in Knithub or on social with the tag #HOLLYBLUEKAL before we choose our clue 1 winner! Carol will choose and announce a clue 1 winner on May 31st 2023.
Our knit-along or KAL is released in several sections called 'clues' so that our community can knit each section together and learn from each other. It also stops people racing ahead and gives slower knitters time to catch up before the next clue is released.
This is also a great way to knit your first garment or learn about bust modifications. You also have the support and camaraderie of other knitters just like you. This means that if you stumble with a particular stitch or technique, you can see how others (and Carol) would approach it.
The neck as measured may seem bigger. This is for 2 reasons; first is that cast-ons can stretch out and will be measured larger, but secondly (most important!) you increase immediately after the cast-on so it gets larger very quickly.
If you measure your stitch gauge and it is correct, this is the most important thing. The neck edging is worked afterwards, and picking up stitches will tighten the neck edge up and hold it's stability. You can even drop down a needle size if you are concerned about the size of the neck.
It's okay to pause at this point and try on your garment. This is the best thing about top-down knitting! Lace does tend to grow/bloom with wet blocking, so slipping your wip onto some waste yarn or spare cables that are long enough and gently steam blocking will give you an idea of the finished garment.
Note that the button band and neckband will add a bit of growth constraint and structure to your garment. The mid-project blocking should help you get a better idea of whether or not the yoke fabric will sit on / around your shoulders.
In the knit-along each clue comes with tips to modify that section of the garment. The body of the sweater has gentle a-line shaping. You will find suggestions on how you can omit that shaping or even create a more fitted waist.
Clue 1 of the Holly Blue KAL is live!
Grab your needles and let's dive in. This cardigan is knit from the top down, so we are starting off strong and putting all of your excited knitting energy to work.
In this clue release, we are working the yoke. This means we are taking on the Bumble Bee lace pattern and those subtle yoke increases and, of course, we will be working some German short rows.
You can find all of your KAL step-by-step videos right here and if you're just finding out about the Spring 2023 knit-along you can join us here.
If you need a quick refresher about the Holly Blue knit-along you can press play here:
If you're new to our knit-alongs, we have a dedicated support and chat thread in our Knithub. This is where you can find all the updates, dedicated thread, and community support.
This year, our knit-along participants have decided to create teams prompted by the wonderful Liz Dolan. Susan Weeks has created these stunning team logos.
Aren't they fantastic?
All you have to do is choose your team and join the chat in Knithub. Susan has kindly allowed us to use the logos on social media, so if you are using them on social platforms outside of Knithub, please make sure to credit her!
Don't forget that we will have spot prizes for each clue release and our grand prize will be drawn on June 22, 2023.
Joining the knit-along after the live launch? Watch the live replay of Clue 1 right here:
During our Instagram Live, we covered some of your most popular questions for this knit-along. You can watch the replay below. Don't forget we will be live at 2.30pm Irish Time over on Instagram every Thursday, and you can catch the replays on our YouTube channel here.
You can find all the videos for the Holly Blue KAL right here.
We always recommend swatching. Though if you have used Nua previously and have a note of a swatch in the correct needle size and stocking stitch you can use this but please do swatch the lace pattern! You can find our tutorials on how to knit a swatch and how to block and measure a swatch and more on our tutorials page.
We have a full blog post right here on how to choose your garment size. It covers positive and negative ease and the importance of swatching. The Holly Blue cardigan sample pictured shows the 39.5” / 100.5 cm modelled with 4” / 105 cm of positive ease. The model is 5’ 6” tall. The sweater works best with 2-4” / 5-10 cm of positive ease.
Each new part of the pattern will be released as a 'clue' on the schedule below:
No, you are welcome to join us and knit from your stash! Just make sure that your swatch meets the recommended gauge for the knitting pattern. You can, however, nab a pattern, workshop and yarn kit bundle right here.
Once we've finished the top section (yoke) it's time to move onto the body. A few different things will be happening now:
The sweater is kept fairly short, with more of a cropped style. If you'd like yours longer just repeat that front panel a few more times. (Make sure you've got enough yarn!)
When you're finished you'll notice that the front panel 'pushes' the work down a bit at the bottom hem. To compensate a little for this we will work short rows across the back to drop it down a bit. I know that some testers liked how this looked and left it without the short rows!
Finally we will finish with ribbing. This will draw the edge of the work in and creates a more stable edge. If you don't want it to draw in too much you could increase the needle size that you use for the ribbing.
Then finally you just need to bind off. Take plenty of care that it's not too tight! I stretched out my work between each stitch to keep it loose enough.
Have fun!